Handmade in York, PA — Each Piece One of a Kind
7 min read
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One of the first questions I get after someone buys a piece from my ice dye collection is some version of the same worry: "How do I wash ice dye without ruining it?" I get it. You just spent money on a one-of-a-kind piece of wearable art, and the thought of throwing it in the wash and watching all that color swirl down the drain is stressful.
Here's the good news. If your ice dye was made properly (with fiber-reactive dye, a full soda ash soak, and thorough rinsing) it's colorfast. The dye isn't sitting on top of the fabric. It has chemically bonded with the cotton fibers at a molecular level. That means the color is part of the fabric now, not a coating that washes away.
Every piece that leaves my studio goes through multiple rinse cycles in industrial washers until the water runs completely clear. I don't cut corners on this step because I know what happens if excess dye is left in the garment. It bleeds, it stains, and it destroys your trust. So when you receive a Floorboard Findings piece, the heavy lifting is already done. Your job is just to maintain it.
That said, how you wash ice dye still matters. Here is the complete care guide I give every customer.
The first wash is the one people stress about most, so let me walk you through it step by step.
Before the garment goes anywhere near water, flip it inside out. This protects the face of the fabric (the side with the most vivid color detail) from friction against other items and the drum of the washing machine. This single habit makes a measurable difference over the life of the garment.
For the very first wash, I recommend washing your ice-dyed piece by itself. Even though I rinse every piece until the water runs clear, there can be trace amounts of unfixed dye in the fibers that release during that first home wash. It's not a flaw. It's normal with fiber-reactive dye. After the first wash, you can group it with similar dark or bright colors.
Cold water. Every time. Hot water opens up cotton fibers and can release dye molecules that are otherwise locked in. Cold water keeps everything tight and stable. Set your machine to the cold/cold setting: cold wash, cold rinse.
A gentle cycle reduces mechanical agitation, which means less friction on the fabric surface. Less friction means less surface fading over time. If your machine has a "colors" or "darks" setting, that works too. Avoid heavy-duty or sanitize cycles. Those combine hot water and aggressive spinning, neither of which your ice dye needs.
A standard liquid detergent works fine. What you want to avoid is anything with bleach, bleach alternatives, or optical brighteners. Optical brighteners are chemicals that make whites look whiter by depositing a UV-reflective coating on the fabric, and they can visually dull vivid dye colors over time. Check your detergent label. If it says "with brighteners" or "whitening formula," switch to something simpler.
After that first wash, caring for your ice dye becomes routine. Here's the ongoing protocol I recommend.
Every single time. Make it a habit. This is the single easiest thing you can do to preserve color vibrancy.
Cold water for every wash, not just the first one. Hot water is the enemy of fiber-reactive dye over the long term.
After the first wash, you don't need to wash your ice dye alone anymore. Just group it with similar colors. Darks with darks, brights with brights. Don't throw a vivid pink crewneck in with a load of white towels.
Fabric softener coats fibers with a waxy residue. Over time, this buildup can make colors appear dull and muted. If you want softness, use wool dryer balls instead. They soften fabric mechanically without leaving any residue.
High heat in the dryer is second only to hot water when it comes to fading. Tumble dry on low heat, or better yet, hang your piece to dry. If you do use the dryer, remove the garment while it's still slightly damp to prevent over-drying and reduce wrinkles.
Let me be direct: properly made ice dye does not fade dramatically with normal washing. But "properly made" is the key phrase. Here's what actually causes color loss in dyed apparel, and what doesn't.
Hot water. Heat breaks the chemical bond between fiber-reactive dye and cotton. One hot wash probably won't ruin a garment, but repeated hot washing will gradually diminish color saturation.
Bleach and harsh chemicals. This one is obvious, but it includes chlorinated pool water and some spot-treatment sprays. If a stain remover says it works on "set-in stains," it's aggressive enough to affect dye.
Direct prolonged sunlight. UV radiation breaks down dye molecules over time. If you hang-dry your ice dye outdoors, do it in the shade. And don't leave it draped over a chair in front of a sunny window for weeks at a time.
Friction. Abrasion from rough surfaces, heavy zippers in the same wash load, or the machine drum itself gradually wears away the surface of fabric fibers, which can make color appear lighter in high-friction areas like elbows and collars. Washing inside out mitigates this significantly.
Poor dyeing technique. If the original dyer didn't soak in soda ash long enough, didn't let the dye cure for a full 24 hours, or didn't rinse thoroughly, the dye won't be fully bonded. This results in garments that bleed and fade from day one. I mention this not because it applies to my work (I'm meticulous about every step) but because if you've bought ice dye elsewhere and had a bad experience, this is likely why.
Normal machine washing (cold water, gentle cycle, inside out) will not cause noticeable fading. I have pieces I dyed three years ago that I wash regularly, and the color is still rich.
Wearing the garment frequently does not fade ice dye. The dye is in the fiber, not on the surface. Wear it as much as you want.
Yes, but iron it inside out on a low-to-medium setting. Don't iron directly on the dyed surface with high heat. A steamer also works well and involves less direct contact.
There's no need to. Ice-dyed cotton garments are fully machine washable. Dry cleaning solvents won't damage the dye, but it's an unnecessary expense for a garment designed to be low-maintenance.
A very small amount of color in the first wash water can be normal. This is unfixed surface dye that didn't rinse out completely. It should be minimal and should not happen after the first wash. If heavy bleeding continues past the first wash, the garment was not rinsed properly during production. Everything from Floorboard Findings is rinsed until the water runs clear before it ever ships.
Any mild liquid detergent without bleach or optical brighteners. Standard grocery store brands work fine. I personally avoid anything marketed as "whitening" or "brightening."
This is one of the most common myths in the dye world. Vinegar is a fixative for acid dyes, which are used on protein fibers like silk and wool. Ice dye uses fiber-reactive dye on cotton. Vinegar does nothing to help set fiber-reactive dye. It's already bonded chemically through the soda ash process. Adding vinegar to your wash won't hurt anything, but it won't help either.
With proper care — cold water, inside out, no bleach — a well-made ice-dyed garment will hold its color for years. The fabric itself will wear out before the dye fades noticeably.
If you take one thing away from this guide, here it is: cold water, inside out, no bleach. That's the formula. Follow those three rules and your one-of-a-kind ice-dyed piece will stay vibrant for as long as you wear it.
If you have a specific care question I didn't cover, check our FAQ page or send me a message. I'd rather answer the question than have you guess and ruin a piece I put 24 hours of work into.
Ready to add to your collection? Browse the current preorder colorways or grab something from the ready-to-ship rack before it's gone.

Maria Budziszewski
Owner & Creator
Every piece is hand-dyed with care in York, PA. From ice dye hoodies to crystal jewelry, each item is crafted to be one-of-a-kind.
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